The Rise and Fall of Burberry: A Fashion Evolution

Introduction

This blog explores the fascinating journey of Burberry, from its innovative beginnings to its struggle with brand image and its recent rebranding efforts.

The Evolution of Burberry: A Timeless Fashion Brand

• Burberry, founded in 1856 in Basingstoke, England, aimed to create men’s outerwear to withstand the British weather by experimenting with fabric blends and coatings.

• They invented garberdeen in 1888, a fabric waxed with lanolin, making the jackets breathable yet sturdy, gaining public recognition for their innovative product.

• By 1901, the iconic EKD logo was created through a designing competition, marking a significant change in the brand’s advertising and establishing its popularity.

• Burberry expanded to London, Paris, New York, and Buenos Aires, focusing on luxury outdoor sports, aligning with the upper-class to promote their products as a symbol of status.

• During World War I, the Burberry trench coat became popular among soldiers, leading to further adaptations for war elements, solidifying its position as a timeless wardrobe staple.

• Earning a royal warrant in 1919, Burberry became a British institution, further cementing its public image, and was commissioned again during World War II to outfit soldiers.

• The brand’s strategic move into Hollywood post-World War II, outfitting notable celebrities, reinforced the trench coat as a timeless fashion statement.

The Fall and Rise of Burberry

• Burberry, a renowned fashion brand, faced a decline in its image and sales due to strategic missteps in the mid-20th century.

• The brand’s failure to invest in new designs and infrastructure led to a shift in clientele to mainly Asian tourists and older demographics.

• Burberry’s decision to license their brand name and check logo across the world, as well as launch cheaper subsidiary lines, initially resulted in high sales but severely tarnished the brand’s reputation and image.

• The iconic Burberry check, introduced in 1967, gained popularity but also contributed to the brand’s cheapening, as it became associated with lower-quality diffusion lines.

• In the 1980s, the brand faced negative association as the Burberry check was adopted by English football fans causing disturbances in Europe and became heavily counterfeited.

• The 1997 financial crash in Asia further impacted Burberry’s sales, leading to a significant drop in revenue and highlighting the brand’s overreliance on the Asian market.

• To address the crisis, Burberry hired a new creative director in 1998 and rebranded to differentiate their products from the counterfeit market, marking the beginning of the brand’s revival.

Transformation of Burberry

• In the late 1990s, Burberry underwent significant changes under the leadership of CEO Rose Marie Bravo.

• To combat the negative image associated with their check pattern, Burberry introduced three new lines: Brit London, prosham, and Burberry Brit.

• The introduction of prosham was aimed at offering a luxury line that utilized the check pattern in a creative or subtle manner.

• Burberry’s reputation in England was negatively impacted by the association of their check pattern with the ‘chav culture’ and football hooligans in the early 2000s.

• The debut of Burberry prosham at London Fashion Week in 2000 marked the brand’s attempt to distance itself from the negative associations.

• A large-scale advertising campaign featuring prominent British figures like Kate Moss and Emma Watson elevated Burberry’s brand image and focus on Britishness.

• Despite the success of the advertising campaign, Burberry faced production issues with the prosham line, leading to a parting of ways with designer Roberto Menichetti.

• The American market embraced the Burberry check, leading to an increase in sales, but also brought the challenge of counterfeit products.

• Burberry recognized the need for a strategic vision to distance themselves from the check pattern and restore desirability to the brand.

The Transformation of Burberry Under Christopher Bailey

• Christopher Bailey made his debut as a designer for Burberry with the Prosum line in the early 2000s, bringing a strong and innovative design to the brand.

• Bailey’s appointment was not just a creative choice, but also a strategic marketing move for Burberry, as they aimed to leverage his British heritage and international business experience.

• Under Bailey’s creative leadership, Burberry underwent a significant rebranding, shifting focus from its iconic check patterns to exceptionally well-made luxury clothing and accessories.

• The shift in production and design strategy paid off, with Burberry experiencing a substantial increase in global operating profits and sales during Bailey’s tenure.

• Bailey’s success led to his promotion as the main creative director in 2004, and under his leadership, Burberry continued to refine its brand image and product offerings.

• In 2010, Burberry made further strategic moves to redefine its brand image, including relocating its fashion shows to London Fashion Week and emphasizing direct-to-consumer retail.

• Bailey’s tenure as CEO and chief creative officer saw the revitalization of Burberry’s licensing agreements, cleaning up past problematic arrangements and reinforcing the brand’s value and perception in the market.

• However, after facing financial challenges in 2015, Burberry underwent further restructuring, consolidating its collections and making strategic decisions regarding its product offerings and branding.

Burberry’s Major Rebranding Under New Leadership

• In the Autumn winter 18 collection, Burberry experienced a significant success

• In July 2017, Marco Gobbetti took over as CEO from Christopher Bailey, followed by the appointment of Ricardo Tisci as the new head designer in March 2018

• There were controversies surrounding the brand, including the destruction of products to protect the brand image, the debut of a new logo and monogram that received widespread dislike, and a noose necklace in Tisci’s second collection

• The brand faced a significant drop in sales, especially in China where over 30 percent of the stores had to be closed

• In March 2021, Burberry faced allegations of human rights abuses for workers in Xinjiang, China

• To renew the brand, Burberry replaced Tisci and Gobbetti with Jonathan Akeroyd as CEO and Daniel Lee as Chief Creative Officer

• The first collection under the new leadership, Autumn winter 23, has been positively received, marking a major rebranding of the classic Burberry look

• The new logo and typeface, introduced through social media, have garnered positive feedback for their nostalgic appeal and traditional British heritage

• The recent shift back to a classic, traditional Burberry aesthetic has generated interest, especially considering the trend towards more understated and heritage-focused fashion

• The company’s move to embrace its heritage while offering wearable and commercial products is seen as an interesting strategy

• The public reception and sales of the new collection will determine the success of this rebranding effort

Conclusion

The story of Burberry is a testament to the challenges and successes faced by iconic fashion brands. The recent rebranding under new leadership marks an exciting new chapter in Burberry’s history and the fashion industry as a whole.

undefined