Why Is Bilona Ghee (A2 Desi Ghee) So Expensive?
Introduction
The traditional method of making ghee, known as bilona ghee or A2 desi ghee, is a labor-intensive and meticulous process that results in a premium product. It holds a significant place in South Asian cooking, with a rich and nutty flavor that sets it apart from regular butter. This blog explores the detailed process of making bilona ghee and sheds light on why it is considered so expensive.
The Art of Making Ghee: A Tradition Passed Down Through Generations
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Bhavish Chaudhary and his mother Shushila are dedicated to the traditional method of making ghee. They spend up to an hour continuously churning the bolognas, a process that cannot be interrupted, or the batch of ghee will be ruined.
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Ghee, also known as bilonagi, is clarified butter. It is meticulously hand-churned using a wooden beater called a bologna. The milk used to make ghee comes from South Asian cow breeds.
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The traditional method of making ghee is labor-intensive, leading to its higher cost compared to traditional butter. In India, ghee produced in this manner can cost over three times as much as factory-made ghee. However, there is a significant demand for this traditional ghee despite its premium price.
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Ghee holds a significant place in South Asian cooking. It is commonly consumed with chapati, lentils, rice, and more. The clarification process gives ghee a nuttier and more concentrated flavor compared to butter. Beyond its flavor, there are practical reasons for choosing ghee over butter.
The Art of Making Ghee in Rajasthan, India
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Ghee can be stored for a long time without spoiling, especially without any milk solids. It also has a higher smoke point than butter, making it better for cooking at high temperatures.
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The process of making nutty and nutritious ghee requires specialized equipment and content cows.
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In Rajasthan, India, the process of making ghee starts at 5:30 in the morning.
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Unlike most butter, ghee in Rajasthan is made by separating curds and whey from milk, similar to the process of making cheese.
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Commercially, ghee is often made using the mechanized cream method, which allows for mass production. However, the traditional bilana method, involving manual labor, is still used on some farms.
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On a farm in Rajasthan, it takes approximately 30 hours to produce just one kilogram of ghee using the traditional bilana method.
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Selecting the right pot is essential for making good ghee. Bavish, the artisan, uses his ears to select a good pot. He claims that a good pot rings like a bell, whereas a low-quality one has flaws that make it sound flat.
The Art of Making Ghee: A Detailed Process
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The process of making the perfect pot of ghee is critical as it involves the entire transformation from raw milk to ghee.
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After heating the milk from morning to night, it is left to cool until the next day to initiate the ghee-making process.
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A starter is added to the milk at around 45 degrees Celsius to kickstart the curdling process.
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The ghee is then left to culture and ferment, allowing it to develop complex flavors rarely found in other types of butter.
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To agitate the curd, the bologna, made by hand from shishim wood, is twisted back and forth. This step is essential and takes around two hours.
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It’s important to acquire the right type of wood for the bologna, as shishim wood is known to absorb the ghee, thus preserving the tool and extending its lifespan when in use.
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Separating the butter from the buttermilk requires about an hour of continuous churning, resulting in the prized cultured butter.
The Art of Making Ghee
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To make ghee, the butter is heated up again to a boiling point.
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The boiling process clarifies the butter, separating the liquid from the milk solids.
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The longer the ghee is cooked, the nuttier its aroma becomes, and the deeper its golden color gets.
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The ideal cooking time for ghee is usually around one to two hours.
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After the cooking process, what remains in the pot is bilona ghee, ready to be packaged and consumed.
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Before being consumed, the ghee is blessed by Sushila, signifying a ritual in the process.
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The family of Bovish, the ghee maker, has a tradition of making ghee for generations.
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In 2020, Bovish expanded his ghee business by going online, tapping into a larger market.
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By 2022, the global ghee market reached a peak of 49.2 billion dollars, and it is estimated to grow to 73.5 billion dollars by 2028.
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Despite being more expensive, the demand for ghee like Bovish’s continues to rise as it comes from indigenous cows known as the ‘desi’ cows.
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Desi cows, particularly the South Asian breeds, produce high-quality milk for ghee making.
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A single desi cow can produce about 10 to 12 liters of milk, contributing to the premium quality of ghee.
Bavish’s Unique Approach to Milk Production
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Bavish’s indigenous cows produce only half as much milk as industrial cows, approximately 20 liters a day. This is significantly lower than the yield of industrial cows.
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The absence of a calf does not affect the milk production of Bavish’s cows. While industrial cows require a calf for milk production, Bavish’s cows continue to produce milk even without a calf present.
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Despite the lower yields, Bavish emphasizes the superior quality of the milk obtained from his indigenous cows. He believes that the high quality compensates for the lower quantity.
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Bavish requires over 20 liters of milk to produce just one liter of ghee. Therefore, when demand is high, he procures milk from other farmers in the village to meet the requirements for ghee production.
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Bavish’s unique methods of milk production and ghee making from indigenous cow’s milk have led to the marketing of his products as A2 desi ghee. The term A2 refers to a specific type of protein, beta casein, found in the milk. A2 desi ghee is made exclusively from the milk of indigenous cows.
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A notable difference between the milk from Bavish’s indigenous cows and that from Western dairy cows is the presence of A2 protein only in the former. Western dairy cow milk contains both A1 and A2 beta casein proteins.
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Research indicates that A2 milk is easier for individuals with lactose intolerance to digest. This attribute has led to a growing preference for A2 milk among customers.
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Bavish’s remote village location poses logistical challenges, especially for nationwide distribution of his products. Despite this, he remains dedicated to his work and the unique approach to milk and ghee production from indigenous cows.
Conclusion
Bilona ghee (A2 desi ghee) is a product of meticulous craft, tradition, and superior quality. Its higher price is justified by the labor-intensive process, unique flavors, and the exceptional quality of desi cow’s milk used in its production. As the demand for premium and traditional ghee continues to rise, the art of making bilona ghee remains a timeless tradition worth preserving.